Myanmar Is unlike another country in South East Asia
What was it?
Since the first years, our history books in school, in India, interpreted Burma along with the unique storylines.
These included:
British Colonialism, Base of Indian National Army of Subhash Chander Bose (Azad Hind Fauz), Indian soldiers fighting at Burmese front in World War 2, elephants in dense bamboo jungles of Burma, the exile of the last Mogul Emperor of India (Bahadur Shah Zafar) in 1857, to Rangoon,
The First Earl Mountbatten of Burma and The Last Viceroy of India, and an established Bollywood song about the Capital Rangoon ( Now called Yangon) released approx in 1949( मेरे पिया गये रंगून) Film Patanga.
I correlate with this gorgeous country as Burma instead of Myanmar; hence I would be switching both names in my write up. Politically the word Burma was seen as a leftover British colonialism narrative and Myanmar as more inclusive of their considerable ethnic minorities in the country. Other titles were also changed including Rangoon as Yangon.
I made plans to visit Burma every year for the two of us but having a close association with India and living in the UK, I always thought of travelling to Burma via Calcutta, India. This was to make two trips out of one! But I realised that it would not be possible due to a lack of organised tours from India to Myanmar. Furthermore, I expected Burma to be too challenging. That the buses and trains were uncomfortable and unsafe with inadequate hotel facilities etc.
I guessed local food would stand along the lines of Indian food. However, things beginning to change for the better as the British travel sector started advertising holidays and accompanied excursions to Burma back since 2015. As a result, we were able to book 12 days long accompanied trip to Burma, to travel in January 2016.
Soon I discovered most of my preconceptions were false, and Burma soon became one of my most favourite Southeast Asian countries to date.
A country which has only recently opened its doors to tourism in the last decade, the tourism industry in Burma is conducting itself reasonably well. The infrastructure is only beginning to come into life, with long travel times via primary highways. As we travelled with Travelsphere ( UK based Travel agency), everything was preplanned and prearranged and prebooked for us, including local inland flights, hotels, and trips. Sort of much tailor-made itinerary!
Before writing this blog, I read my recollections of about 50 pages, written during our visit to Burma and selected a few pictures from the album to post here.
short video of my written recollections on Burma
What were the highlights of Burma in our trip?
Well, very difficult to outline and put it in preference but, I have tried!!
- Shwedagon Pagoda and Aung San Suu Kyi House in Yangon ( Rangoon)
- Hot Air Baloon Safari ride in Bagan.
- Road to Mandalay
- Irrawady River and Inle Lake stay with gorgeous Sunsets and Sunrise
- Pindaya Caves with more than 8000 Buddha Statues.
Ahead of reaching Burma, I had read a few books to supplement my basic knowledge of the history of Burma. These included
- The Glass Palace By Amitav Ghosh (the year 2000,) historical novel, set in Burma, Bengal and Malaya, spanning a century from the British Invasion of Burma thru to Second World War leading to late 20th Century)
- The River of Lost Footsteps by Thant Myint-U 2006 ( Story of modern Burma, in part through his own life story by which he has portrayed the rise and decline in the contemporary world, from the time of Portuguese pirates and Mughal princes thru decades of British colonialism, WW2, a civil war that continues today, military repression and the emergence of Nobel Prize Laureate Madam Aung San Suu Kyi)
- Letters From Burma 1997 Impressive collections from the Nobel Laureate Aung San Suu Kyi, thru these letters, the reader catches a glimpse of precisely what is at stake for freedom of Burma and the love for her homeland.
- Lonely Planet Guide to Myanmar
Once reached Yangon, the trip started headways.
The House of Memories
Upon reaching Yangon our tour manager and the guide ( she travelled with us from London) took us en route to The house of Memories for lunch. Starting with a gentle introduction to Yangon, it was the childhood home of Aung San Suu Kyi, Mynamar Stateswoman and Noble price Laureate. She was brought up here and lived in this house after the murder of her father Major General Aung San, who was responsible for bringing about Burma's independence from British rule.
This house has been converted into a famous restaurant. The homely feeling and the wealth of colonial memorabilia provided a charming dining setting. We were served delicious Burmese food starting with Vegetable tempuras and soups pursued by sweet rice dumplings, papaya salad ( my favourite) and fish curry.
The soul of Yangon Shwedagon Pagoda
Shwe in the Burmese language means gold.
Shwedagon Pagoda is considered to be the most religious site and the most loved site for the Burmese and ranks as the oldest Pagoda in the world, being approx 2600 years old. Shwedagon Pagoda is visible from everywhere in the metropolis, not visiting it is like not visiting Eiffel Tower in Paris or that Opera House in Sydney!
"Shwedagon rose superb, glistening with its gold, like a sudden hope in the dark night of the soul of which the mystics write glistening against the fog and smoke of the thriving city."
- W Somerset Maugham, The Gentleman in the Parlour 1930
Shwedagon was pristine in every respect, clearly showing that it enjoyed the dignity of the place. The main stupa is the temple’s most impressive structure. It is apparent at its hilltop location from much of Yangon city. The stupa is surrounded by 64 small stupas.
The 99 meters high main stupa is completely covered with gold plating and enshrines the sacred Buddha relics. Its core is solid and closed to the public.
The pagoda bustled with people performing prayer rituals, including burning incense sticks, offerings of fresh lotus flowers, prayer flags and streamers to stupas. Devotees were performing circumambulations and prostrations, all in the majestic background of the sun setting.
Image of Shwedagon Pagoda including my husband Vinod and me
The architecture of Yangon – formerly Rangoon offers a reminder of colonial rule and reveals the commercial importance of Burma to the British Empire throughout most of the 19th and 20th centuries. The city of Yangon itself is dominated by the golden topped Shwedagon Pagoda on the hill.
We found Burmese people most simple, genuine, friendly and hospitable with a keen desire to show their incredible cultural sights and experiences. They were so amazed at the presence of tourist around them that you could see excitements on their's faces. They smiled, said hello and tried to exchange email addresses, with good internet facilities in the tourist areas.
The wandering monks in groups in their saffron or maroon coloured robes collectively made a most memorable sight to capture in the cameras. We saw several of the well-known tourist companies with their flock of tourist in their branded tourist buses at significant spots.
Walking the streets provided a glimpse into a nation where people still wear traditional attire and utilise Thanaka, a yellow paste made from bark, as a sunblock and a natural cosmetic. We met the charming fleet of tourist guides, all along, who would go out of their scheduled trips to show their fascinating country with colossal pride.
Few pictures from the street scenes of Yangon
I would narrate about Burmese cuisine in my next blog as we travel northwards to Bagan, a city with 4000 and more temples.
What an amazing trip. Love the photos and the history of the temples. Looking forward to learning about the cuisine!
ReplyDeleteInformative . Enjoying knowing about Myanmar
ReplyDeleteReally one of the most beautiful Asian countries, though under-utilised as a tourist destination because of long civil strife. You have given adequate food for thought. I remember many of your stunning photos that you had put on Facebook. Looking forward to the next blog.
ReplyDeleteBeautifully written... the book that endeared me to Burma in my school days was Somerset Maugham's book titled "Road to Burma" set in the 1930s ... I think the book may have another title - "A Gentleman in the Parlour" ...
ReplyDelete