My Pilgrim Footprints In Tibet Passage 2

Blog number 13.   12.12.2020.    nguptatravelscrapbook.blogspot.com

My pilgrim footsteps in Tibet Passage 2

"If you want to walk fast, walk alone. But if you want to walk far, walk together." JRD Tata.

COVID-19 Status: This week, the UK made world history by vaccinating the first patient with Pfizer BioNTech Vaccine. 

Passage 2

In the passage1 of "My Pilgrim Footprints In Tibet", I have detailed my travels originating in Lhasa to Gyantse to Shigatse reaching Xegar (New Tingri) taking three full days.

I, with this, summarise the further journey in Passage 2.

Everest Peak North face

The Tibetan road journey to the Everest base camp (EBC) at 5150M is acknowledged as one of Tibet's most celebrated adventures. Crouching at over 29,000 feet (8844 M) above sea level, Mount Everest is the prominent peak of the Himalayas and the world's highest peak. This voyage transported us to enjoy the Sunset and Sunrise of Golden Himalayan Peaks every day and marvel at the exclusive Tibetan countryside and their folks, animals and lifestyles in passing. The high-point of this pageant journey was the side-trip to Mount Everest Base. Here one can get as close as possible to the world's highest mountain and get engrossed in the sheer mystique that comes with it.

put map here 

From Shigatse to Xegar (New Tingri) 250 KM westwards. 

It took almost the whole daylight time to reach New Tingri or Xegar (Approx. 250 KM west of Shigatse). We experienced a fascinating journey on the Friendship Highway, stopping at Lhatse for lunch and passing thru two mountain passes, namely Tsuo La at 4500M and Gyatso La at 5050M. The panorama and the vegetations on the way were reoccurring including vast tablelands, steppes, rivers, emerald blue lakes, brown wilderness, barley and rapeseed fields, high mountains interposed with Tibetan villages and flocks of mammals including yaks, sheep, cows and blue mountain goats, etc. Domesticated yaks are the main livestock in Tibet. They are large and heavy animals, heavily insulated by long and thick furs. Yak physiology is well adapted to high altitudes with a large heart and lungs with greater capacity for transporting oxygen in the blood because of the persistence of higher share of Fetal haemoglobin throughout their life.

Vast Tibetan Plateau and domesticated Yaks

As we drove through Gyatso La at 5050M, we entered the Mt. Everest Protection Zone adorned with vast prayer flag collections everywhere.

Gyatso La 5050 M

The overnight lodging at New Tingri, the last stop before driving to EBC, was fundamental. It was along the Friendship Highway, offering the final springboard for the EBC. We reached there in the early evening; the hotel appeared full of travellers, nearly 30 FWD vehicles parked in the hotel's forecourt. Xegar settlement has just one street, with accommodations including inns and guesthouses, along with a few traditional Tibetan tea houses serving tea and the food.

Our guide got permits for Qomolangma (Chomolungma) National Park and EBC for the next day while we headed to the dining area. The Qomolangma (Tibetans call Everest with this name) national park has 27,000 sq km of space guarded by Chinese patrol police with frequent check posts. So far we met roads in excellent conditions beginning from Lhasa, being constructed and overseered by Chinese servicemen. The modernisation of road network has yielded multiple and contemporary interests for Tibetans to operate and employ locals for rest houses, small hotels, restaurants and fuel stations etc. along the whole route.

Tensing advised us to eat light, that was the pattern anyway, comprising clear vegetable soup and boiled rice, which we often peppered by a sprinkle of chilli sauce. The room was icy and felt uncomfortable, with us getting mild Altitude Sickness as shortness of breath and headaches. We did not forget to take our daily doses of Diamox, a lifesaver. In the dining area, we gossiped with several travellers at various stages of their trekking or mountaineering trips and felt a bit reassured. We slept poorly. Just one more day and then we would start our descent towards Tibet-Nepal border at Zangmu, to reach favourable altitudes. 

Our travels from Xegar to EBC and further on to Old Tingri Village.

The 6 AM wake-up call headed the start of the fourth day of travelling. We added in nearly four to five layers of clothing besides caps, gloves, balaclavas and shawls. We realised that our faces got swollen because of the low oxygen in thin air. I felt my fingers were jamming and head-spinning over with Altitude Sickness. In hindsight, I should have used oxygen via our reserved supply of oxygen cylinder in our vehicle. It was the ultimate day of ascent on the road in our 4WD vehicle when we summed up all our spiritual energy to tug through the last leg of the voyage to get to the Everest Base Camp.

Multiple peaks inc Makalu, Lhotse, Cho-Oyu and Gyachung

A few kilometres from Xegar, we left the friendship highway on a side slip drawing to the Everest Base Camp at 5150M. That was the day when, despite exhaustion, debility and braving bitter frosty conditions, our team of four travellers tailgated towards Everest base camp, via Pang La and Rongbuk Monastery at 4930 M. The road first climbs high to Pang La at 5120 M. From the top of this mountain pass, we came across the breathtaking views of the Himalayas, including Makalu, Lhotse, Everest, Gyachung, and Cho Oyu explained to us by Tensing, our guide. We stopped at the pass to enjoy these peaks and for the exceptional lifetime photo opportunities. I felt frozen with an added wind chill effect, realising moreover that my near-frozen fingers could not push my camera button for picture shoots (we didn't have advanced mobiles). However, the scintillating views of the peaks in front of us were overwhelming. 

Everest Base camp scenes

Rongbuk Monastery, of the Nyingma sect, is the world's highest religious building. It is an important landmark as from 2019 onwards one can only travel up to this Monastery for Everest views making up as the new Everest Base Camp. For us, there was still more to come as we boarded a local bus for the final terminal of the EBC (at 5150 M) before walking up to a temporarily erected tented village in the basin of the Everest Base Camp. Eventually, as we started walking to the top of the last ascent, stumbling over loose rocks and over a white canvass, all I could do was perch and cheer at what had become one of my most outstanding accomplishments.

Breath-taking views of Everest and other peaks.

Various scenes during the journey

The top of the world, The Mount Everest, rose perfect before me (5150M).

All the colours were there, from deep ocean blue to snow white to mid-day sun shades. I felt as if a spiritual power is whispering in my ears to capture it all while I am there. The wind was boisterous, sending shrieks of windchill down my bones, my heartbeat trying to match up the currents whirling around me.

After the many ascents and descents in our wilderness journey, there we were into the lap of Himalayas, experiencing the hidden beauty of the land of Gods! The Everest was mystical, majestic, glorious, gracious and humbling! So many colours and glimpses, every colour was more profound than the conventional one!

Tent Community (Za-Rombuk).

There is a Tent Community at the Everest Base Camp known as Za-Rombuk. The locals set up these tents for the tourist season and provide temporary shelter and lodgings to the travellers and trekkers. The tents in Za-Rombuk were cosy, windproof, with a centrally placed stove where the owners cooked a small meal for the visitors. After devoting an hour around and taking many photographs of the Mount Everest North Face and its surroundings, we settled in a tent owned by Tensing's sister where she thankfully offered us hot soup, a real lifesaver. We made mobile phone contact with our children here in the UK, from the Everest Base Camp, to confirm the network coverage and convey our excitement. 

Inside The tent at Everest Base Camp, with Peter and Leena

Romance beyond the summits:

Our fellow travellers, a young couple, Peter and Leena from Sydney, had joined us in Kathmandu for this journey. We were an excellent company to each other. Peter kept us amused throughout the journey with Indian Bollywood tales, heard from his employer named a Mr Gupta! On recognising Leena trembling and sobbing, I learnt that Peter had proposed to her at the Everest Base camp a few minutes ago! We were delighted for the couple. I had packed peanut butter and strawberry jam sandwiches that morning using my last supplies. I mothered them over by sharing sandwiches, which they delightfully obliged with, amidst all the mixed emotions.

Return to Kathmandu.

We travelled back via the same slip road to reach another rudimentary village known as Old Tingri for overnight lodging. Again the cold weather was unbearable with frosted beds and no provision of any heating measures. We slept for few hours and got up with planned early start south-west towards Tibet-Nepal border at Zangmu.

We had a few more stops en route, including photo opportunities with different views of the peaks still in sight. In this region, the road quality was unpredictable, with many zig-zag dirt tracks encountered but eventually got on the tarmacked Friendship highway. First, we ascended to Lalung La, at an elevation of 5050 M, a high mountain pass, before our final sharp descent along narrow windy roads, through lush forested mountainsides and deep gorges. It engulfed the road in thick mist, making the driving dangerous in several sections.  We descended to an altitude of 3000M, known as the fastest mountain descent globally, attaining 2000M lower in barely an hour. The change in landscape was radical from perilous brown colours to greens, pinks and oranges on mountainsides interspersed with villages. 

A fast descent down towards Tibet-Nepal Border

The border crossing at Zangmu was a smooth process whereby we bid farewell to Tensing and Tansen, who had to negotiate back to reach Shigatse the same evening. We were grateful to our driver and guide, who kept our spirits up and looked after us in their capabilities. Tensing had abundant knowledge of Tibetan history and had a grand passion for sharing his stories with us en route. He attended to us during the trip and brought many, many peals of laughter with unforgettable moments.

Tibet-Nepal Border at Zangmu

Once inside Nepal's borders, the drive was reasonably straightforward in a Nepalese registered vehicle and with a new driver. We stopped overnight at a campsite lodging named The Last Resort, which I have described in Passage 1 of this blog. The next day we reached Kathmandu for our onward journey back to Delhi and London. 

The Kailash Mountain and Mansarovar Lake.

Mount Kailash, Picture courtesy of Amazon 

I have added a summary of The Mount Kailash's sacred peak in Tibet's Chinese occupied South-Western region at an elevation of 6638M. I seek blessings from Almighty God to enable me to take to another trip to this part of Tibet in near times.

The Himalayan beauty is unique, rustic, calm, and tranquil; it is no wonder that there are attempts to show that these mountain ranges are geographically alive, growing by a quarter of an inch every year! 

According to Hindu mythology, Lord Shiva abodes on the Kailash Mountain holding a divine power which is highly sacred to Hindus and Buddhists alike. Lake Mansarovar is a high altitude freshwater lake fed by the Kailash Glaciers near Mount Kailash. Thousands of pilgrims undergo the Kailash Mansarovar pilgrimage through different routes accessible from India, Nepal, or China. The expedition is organised by the Ministry of External Affairs, India, and the journey beyond the International Border is supervised by Chinese authorities.

Devotees take about three days to perform the Kora, circumambulation or Parikrama, (about 52 KM), encompassing The Kailash Mountain, inspiring the maximum physical endurance and dedication in the adverse weather. No one has ever ascended Kailash mountain because of religious reasons. 

Afterthoughts.

Why is it ethical to travel to Tibet despite forceful annexation of Tibet to china? 

Then there is the question of Tibet; Illegally occupied or peacefully liberated depending on your political convictions. 

Tibet is a harsh place to live in. The high frosted grasslands do not yield to any cultivation. The Tibetan economy is mainly one of subsistence agriculture. With a minimal amount of arable land, livestock farming is the most primary agriculture here.  Apart from monks, traditionally, Tibetans herd livestock of domesticated yaks, sheep and goats, living a nomadic life at an altitude of 3000-5000 meters.

Like many places worldwide, young Tibetans do not want to work on the land and want to move to the city for commercial reasons. They want to use all mod cons and keep themselves informed about the outside world via the internet and social media. They want to get higher education in universities and hence want to move out of the villages. Tourism brings in money and opportunities for small businesses. In a nutshell, engagement is almost always better than a boycott. 

One has to put up with a lot to get up onto the "rooftop of the world". Far distances & long-haul flights, bureaucracies and permits for everything, long and uncomfortable drives on rough and dirt roads, altitude sickness, headaches, freezing temperatures, low hotels, with a modest choice of food. But make it to Tibet to get rewarded with a surplus of disparate experiences. A Tibet travel will delight and challenge your senses with fragrances, desires, and shades you have never experienced before.

Aside from Mountains.

I have treasured every moment of my Tibet journey. Every day was full of new eye-openers. I have posted a collage from a few pages of the memoirs I listed down each day of these travels. Whatever your interests are, your lasting memories of Tibet are likely to be off Lhasa beer you shared in a dining room, the yak-butter tea offered by a monk in a monastery or the praying Tibetan people anywhere and everywhere! Always ready with a convincing smile, and with excellent tolerance and openness of heart despite decades of political turmoil and hardship, the people genuinely make travelling in Tibet a profound joy. 

Travel Memoirs

I intend to write my next blog on the world-famous Venice Simplon Orient Express; from roughened out travels to the epitome of luxury!

I thank you for reading my blogs and putting in your valuable comments and suggestions.