Mysterious Machu Picchu and Peru. nguptatravelscrapbook.blogspot.com/machupicchu/peru

Blog number 27 Machu Picchu 25.03.2021  nguptatravelscrapbook.blogspot.com

Mysterious Machu Pichu and Peru

Being Peruvian means to come from the farthest place possible to get to Europe. Peru is the land of the Incas. South America's capital; was where the Spanish founded their empire, took over the Inca empire, and converted it into a Spain colony- Mario Testino

Photo opportunity with locals and llamas and alpacas. Machu Picchu

Holidays to Peru have been regularly promoted in the UK travel trade with visible, vivid and engaging emerald green images of Machu Picchu. These holidays are typically characterised by excursions, integrating like-minded and seasoned travellers. We booked a twelve-day trip to Peru in April 2011, travelling to the capital Lima, leading on to Cusco ( elevation of 3400 m, 11154 Feet), Machu Picchu (2430 m, 7972 feet), Lake Titicaca (3810 m, 12500 feet) and a return from Lima back to London.

Machu Picchu panorama

Cusco town at an elevation of 3400m 11154ft

Lake Titicaca, elevation 3810m 12500 ft

Though there are regular escorted tours to Peru for travellers like us touring about in our tempo and pace, we found that Peru was full of enthusiastic young travellers, hiking, trailing, backpacking and roughing it out a shoestring budget. Activities like mountaineering, paragliding, river rafting, zip-lining and bike trails were not very far off from the cities. But obviously, the most famous adventure is the Classic Inca Trail Hike starting from Cusco at an elevation of 2800 meters approx, tracking 42 km (26miles), reaching Machu Picchu in about four to five days. 

For us, the adventure lay in first getting there by flying backwards to Madrid, then, fourteen hours direct flight by LAN airways to Lima, needing time to catch up on seven hours of jet lag if nothing else. The trick lay in taking this outstanding place in small bites and not rushing to Machu Pichu's adventures. The main attraction (which needed acclimatization), perched at an altitude of 2430 m ( lower altitude than Cusco town).

Cusco street scenes

What consists of legendary Latin America

Long before we started travelling and reaching out to the Southern hemisphere in the Americas, I often pondered what Latin America consisted of? This phrase is generally used in travel adverts. Formally, Latin America is not counted under a continent or even under the South Americas. It required some research work to comprehend what Latin America comprised off.

I have realized some variances in Latin America, Southern America, North and South America and then the Southern Hemisphere following the short research. I have an Encyclopaedia (World Book) which has rarely been used since the advent of the mighty and the universal existence of the Google empire as a search engine. For a change, for this blog, I did open the related volumes of Encyclopaedia, dusted the dust covers, and browsed and revered thru the associated segments. I felt nostalgic and old-fashioned while going through these pages holding the books in my hands, obtained almost thirty-odd years ago.

Spanish architecture in Lima

Latin America region is difficult to define universally. It can be shaped geographically or by the languages spoken in the area. Geographically it includes all the southern Hemisphere countries south of the United States, regardless of languages spoken. Defining language-wise, Latin America is where a Romance language (Spanish, Portuguese, or French) is spoken. One can also define Latin America as the countries with a history of Iberian (Spanish and Portuguese) colonialism. The most practical definition, and the one I have utilized in this blog, defines Latin America as countries where Spanish or Portuguese is currently the dominant language. 

As per this explanation, Latin America is a world region that spans two continents, North America( mainly Mexico but including Central America and the Caribbean) and South America. Currently, there are 33 countries in Latin America and the Caribbean as per the UN. Most people in the region speak Spanish or Portuguese, although French, English, Dutch, and Creole are also expressed in Central America. It still remains confusing to me!

Colourful handicrafts of Peru

As common knowledge, Latin American countries are considered developing or emerging nations, with Brazil, Mexico, and Argentina comprising the largest economies. Latin America's population has a high proportion of mixed-race people due to its colonial history and multiple encounters between Europeans, Africans, and indigenous people. The majority of Latin America gained independence from Spain between 1810 and 1825, with Brazil gaining independence from Portugal in 1825 with Cuba achieving the same in 1898, while Spain ceded Puerto Rico to The USA in the Treaty of Paris, ending the  Spanish- American war. In time, my husband and I have been fortunate to travel and experience the appeals of many Latin American countries, including Argentina, Brazil, Peru, Mexico, Honduras, Belize, Guatemala and Cuba and some Caribbean islands. We were supposed to travel to Chile and Uruguay, stretching over to Antarctica and Falkland islands by a cruise liner. Unfortunately, that was not possible due to the Covid 19 pandemic outbreak in the early part of 2020.

Moray, another architecture site

My travel experiences of Machu Picchu and around.

Machu Picchu, a citadel built high in the Andes on an apparently impossible site, stands as a testimony to native Americans and to their sharp ability of architectural skills. How was it possible to create a mountain city complete with running water, drainage system, irrigation works, food growing on terraces and stone structures so advanced that it has survived for over 500 years? Visitors flock to Machu Pichu all the time, yet remarkably this site has not been cited in history by its Spanish Conquerors. It is also not indeed stated in the existing indigenous Peruvian history of more than 5000 years old. However, Lima's museums revealed the details, characteristics, abilities and desires of these lost civilizations. Studies at some archaeological sites have demonstrated that early Peruvians lived there as far back as up to 14,000 BCE. Along with India, Egypt and China, Peru is considered one of the six cradles of ancient civilization and the only one located in the southern hemisphere! Peruvians were farming maze, potatoes, cotton, quinoa, beans and herding llamas and alpacas and endured. By the time the Spaniards invaded the country in 1532, the region had already seen Inca civilizations' epic rise and fall; the Spanish conquest changed history forever. The economy, the political set up, religion and language all changed with modern history clashing between the Incas and Spaniards.

What drew us to Peru was the exceptional desire to visit Machu Picchu and to appreciate its mystical stories surrounded by cloud forests. Also, to appreciate Lake Titicaca's indigenous population still sticking to their multi centuries-old traditions and lifestyles. Incidentally, both these destinations are perched at high altitudes needing acclimatization in Cusco, the base town,  for few days, which is higher altitude than the other two destinations (see above for altitudes heights). I had read many travel tales of the Andes mountains that there are mountainside areas that humans have never walked on. Our local guides related the stories of bear paws in the mountains but never seeing the bear on our trip. I felt a Yeti flashback coming on from previous travels to Nepal.

Acclimatization experience in Cusco.

Cusco (once the Inca empire's capital) is about an hour and a half hour flight from Lima, situated to its southeast region amongst the Andes Mountains. Cusco was declared a World Heritage Site in 1983, now hosting more than two million visitors per year. Cusco, the magnet for backpackers, eager and anxious to walk the Classic Inca Trail, is Peru's third-largest city with a mere 500,000 people, which means many indigenous people still live in remote rural communities. Its archaeological remains ( Saqsaywaman, Ollantaytambo in the Sacred Valley, Machu Picchu and Moray), and the sustaining Spanish colonial architecture, squares and cathedral etc., are the primary sites to visit. Flying into Cusco glimpsed the impressive green Andes mountains and the deep-set Canyons along the flight track. The high altitude can cause some problems, but the tourist industry is vital to Peru, and hence great efforts have been amassed to ensure tourists enjoy their stay. 

All the hotels have coca tea and coca sweets available, which reduce the likelihood of altitude sickness. The hotels, shops, restaurants etc., have Oxygen supply available on the spot and provide it if needed. 

There were small canisters of Oxygen available on sale throughout the region. All we needed was our face mask, which I dutifully carried with me ( being mildly asthmatic), needing Oxygen while moving around in Cusco. As per our guide's advice on altitude sickness, we took it easy, ate lightly, drank the complimentary Coca tea, waiting for it to pass over, which it finally did in the next two days!

Machu Picchu means old mountain or old peak.

Hiram Bingham was a Yale University history lecturer and an explorer who happened to be in Cusco in 1911 when he learned of a 15th century-old archaeological mystery. 

Bingham was exploring and surveying a lost Inca city (not Machu Picchu) around Cusco when he stumbled across the geometric splendour of Machu Picchu rather. There is a belief that he was headed to Machu Picchu's ruins by a local boy aged eleven years living in the vicinity.

In South America, endowed with magnificent pre-Colombian archaeological sites, Machu Picchu is a top showstopper. Machu Picchu's strategic and isolated high altitude setting, on the slopes of the Andes Mountains coupled with its confounding significance in the old Inca world, makes this Lost City one of the world's most impressive and historical stops. Abandoned by the Inca, the 100-acre complex of temples, terraces, warehouses, houses, stairs, irrigation terraces, peripheral walls, entry gates, and a surrounding moat remained hidden until Hiram Bingham introduced it to the world. It was somehow completely unnoticed and unaccounted for by Spanish conquistadores, who otherwise were recognised to keep meticulous records. Known to some locals as a lost city, several farming families lived in Machu Picchu's surroundings when it was discovered. Recent research points to its presence known to local people living there at that time. Overwhelmed by the splendid site of Machu Pichu that he arrived at so unpredictably, Bingham gazed, not knowing if anyone would accept what he encountered!

Machu Picchu buildings

Historian records tell that Machu Picchu is a 15th-century Inca remains sitting on a crest between and on the eastern slants of the Andes mountains at an elevation of 2430m and overlooking the Urubamba River below. The site hugs terraced fields on the edges, which were once used to grow maize and potatoes and similar crops. The precisely cut grey granite building stones of Machu Pichu were assembled without mortar (typical of the Inca). No human power was employed from the beginning to the end for the construction of Machu Pichu citadel, using no animals or wheels to carry quarried stone atop to the sacred valley, as revealed by historians. Machu Picchu comprises more than 150 buildings ranging from baths and houses to temples and sanctuaries. To stop the structure from sliding down the mountain's side, the Inca people also built over 600 terraces; the improvements they made in structural engineering were unheard of!

Travelling via the famous blue train from Cusco to Machu Picchu.

For Machu Picchu, we travelled via the famous luxury train from a station near Cusco named Ollantaytambo to a village called Aguas Calientes, taking few hours and then another 50 minutes ride in a bus to the actual gate of entry to Machu Picchu. The train's early morning boarding was very nostalgic for all our group whilst we were led to our seats, encountering the vendors selling their goods, So early in the day! We both bought our telescoping walking poles from these vendors ( cheap as compared to the UK), which were helpful gadgets when negotiating Machu Picchu walks, tracks and steps all the way. The train cuts through the Andes mountains, running along the Urubamba river ( a tributary of the Amazon river), offering fantastic views through its panoramic windows. We came across many small Inca castles, with their terraces, very dense vegetation, heavy growths of orchids, along with Borrelia plantations etc.

Lunch on board the blue train

Reaching near Machu Picchu

We were served breakfast on board, profoundly relished by us all; I still remember the aroma of hot coffee being served when it was a bit nippy on board the train.

Mysteries surrounding Machu Picchu: Who Built it? Why was it abandoned?

In the 16th century, the Spaniards arrived in South America, uprooting the Inca Empire. In 1572 CE, with the fall of the last Incan capital, their rulers' line came to an end. Machu Picchu, a royal estate once visited by great emperors, fell into ruin till its rediscovery in 1911. It is unknown why the Incas deserted Machu Picchu?

While Spanish conquerors brought the end of the Inca empire, evidence suggests that Machu Picchu's site was evacuated much before this time. Scholars have proposed a smallpox epidemic, but the real cause remains a mystery without any firm proof. An Inca empire that would eventually develop into a South American realm that stretched from Ecuador to Chile led to beliefs that Machu Picchu was built in the mid-1400s by the ninth ruler of Inca. Various archaeologists consider that Machu Picchu was constructed as a residence and a respite dwelling for the emperor and his family. Although Machu Picchu has an encircling wall, a proper gateway and a surrounding moat, the experts do not consider it to have been set up with military objectives in mind. There are many structures in the foreground of Machu Picchu Citadel that would have enhanced the spiritual significance of the site? These include The Temple of Sun, beside the emperor's residence, in an elliptical shape. During the June solstice, the rising sun shines directly into one of the temple's windows, indicating an alignment between the window, rock, and solstice sun. 

Similarly, many other structures here have been linked to modern astronomical observations and methods. But perhaps the biggest puzzle at Machu Picchu is a giant rock, named "the Intihuatana". The stone is situated on a raised platform that towers above the plaza. It may have been used for astronomical observations of some form but largely remains a mystery. 

Some exciting travel trivia on Machu Picchu.

1.What is the difference between Llama and Alpaca?

llama

It helps to identify the difference between the two animals while travelling and found often grazing the grounds at Machu Picchu and beyond. Both are related to the camel family, but llamas grow up to twice the alpaca size. 

alpaca

They were essential resources for the Incas, not having other domesticated animals such as horses, goats or sheep. Peruvians use their wool and fibres extensively in their knitted garments and handicrafts.

2.The legal dispute between Peru and the USA over 1500 Artefacts taken to Yale by Bingham.

Bingham narrated his discovery in a book, "The Lost City of the Incas." with eager tourists arriving and reaching Peru to follow in his footsteps up the formerly obscure Inca Trail. He also excavated almost 1500 artefacts from Machu Picchu, taking them back to Yale University for further examination, prompting a dispute and a law-suit between the USA and Peru. Peru government lobbied President Barak Obama to return the items, which Yale finally agreed to!

3.While at Machu Picchu, our guide quizzed us that what else was happening while the Inca empire was at the height of its power? 

None of us could answer his question! While the Incas ruled throughout the Andes, Leonardo Di Vinci was painting Mona Lisa, and the Ming Dynasty ruled China!

4.We got our passports stamped at the entry gate of Machu Picchu, an impressive souvenir and a happy reminder of our Peruvian adventure.

5.Machu Pichhu became and came to be known as one of the new seven wonders of the world (2007) and, of course, a World Heritage-listed site since 1983.

6.We happened to visit Machu Picchu in 2011, celebrating the centenary since its rediscovery in 1911.

7.Due to its location at high altitudes and in the mountains, most of the days, a blanket of mist covers Machu Picchu till midday, creating floating amongst the clouds. Legend has it that spirits rise from the ground at night to haunt people. To shield against the spirits, most porters will sleep with a mirror to look out for the ghosts!

8.Inca Kola 

Inca Kola is a source of Peru's national pride and a national symbol! The Coca-Cola Company owns the Inca Kola everywhere except in Peru. It is owned by a local company and is in a joint venture between the Lindley family who invented it and Coca Cola. We tasted this soft drink being sweet and full of fruity flavours. Locals call it Peru's Champagne!

Lake Titicaca, 380 km. to the south of Cusco.

At an elevation of 3810 m( 12500) in the Andean mountains, Lake Titicaca is the world's highest navigable lake. More than 120 meters long and 50 miles wide, it was the centre of Inca civilization; today, it straddles the boundary between Peru (west) and Bolivia (east). The air is thin and evident at this high altitude, the sun mighty, bright, and the lake is sparkly with brackish waters. The horizon appeared limitless and vast when we reached the city of Puno, enduring eight hours of tiring bus journey beginning in Cusco. The journey took through the towering mountains, some snow-capped, passes right through the middle of a market at Juliaca township, selling everything from herbs and spices to car tyres and power tools. Andean women, in hats, shawls, ponchos and thick tights, sat beside the route, knitting in the sunshine. One can reach the far-flung islands on this lake from the busy port of Puno. The enroute journey displayed Andean life, harvest fields, smaller lakes, villages, markets, squares, herds of llamas, alpacas, with a stop at a famous church named Andahualillias( considered to be the Sistine chapel of Andes). The bus stopped at several other photo opportunity locations, a village lunch sumptuously desired before reaching our hotel, seizing a room with excellent views of the lake itself.

We toured one of the main floating islands named Uros, inhabiting Uros people, though many small islands are locating the inhabitants which can be reached via boats. The Uros are an uncommon inherent race who migrated to Lake Titicaca an estimated 4000 years ago. Due to political uncertainty in the region, particularly with the Incas' arrival, the Uros built a mobile floating city to escape their enemies. Unfortunately, the Inca eventually located their colony and forced many Uros into slavery. 

Locally prepared lunch

The floating islands are an exceptional designing feat, particularly considering how long ago the originals were constructed. Workers collect totora reed, which is universal to the lake, and weave their dense roots together to form a sturdy layer. Considering each island's base is up to 2 meters (6.5 feet) thick, this takes considerable time and effort. To hold them in place, the islands are moored to the lake bed using ropes and nails. 

Local Uros natives

Although tourism is a significant income source for modern Uros people, they must still exploit several traditional hunter-gatherer techniques to survive. For example, the white lower section of the totora reed is edible, providing nourishment and medicinal benefits such as pain relief. Trout, catfish and kingfisher are caught in the lake. Many NGO's are stocking the errands of the education of children, employment to inhabitants, promoting their home-produced including woven articles etc. and urging them to join the mainland. Solar powers provide a source of energy for their TVs, radios and are apt to use mobile phones.

Local scenes

Puno city was laid back (obviously) but full of cultural characters, including tribal women wearing highly colourful handwoven alpaca or llama wool skirts, scarves, children being carried on their back supported in a sling. For some of us beyond the vigour of youth, the walking streets were a bit too steep but provided excellent vistas of their day to day lives. Despite the retro appearance of Puno, we had an excellent mix of food for lunch and dinner in local restaurants, including famous Quinoa soups, pies, grilled fish and vegetables served with home-baked tortillas. 

Back to Lima.

Few people from our group had their trip extended by a few more days to visit the famous Nazca lines, another archaeological marvel of this region. These lines in southern Peru are a group of geoglyphs etched into desert sands; there are about 300 figures, including animals and plants primarily visible from the air. 

Lima

The majority of us returned to capital Lima for the remaining day before returning to London. Lima, the main gateway to Peru, is a major city bustling with history. It is a melting pot featuring pre-Hispanic, colonial and modern elements. The metropolis is surrounded by every aspect of Nature: the Pacific sea, islands, Andes mountains and Atacama deserts. Lima's city is a well planned out city with wide boulevards lined with Ficus, jacaranda and palm trees and buildings laced with various bougainvillaea colours. Its various neighbourhoods feature a city of more than ten million people with a bustling seashore life, cafes, hilltop restaurants, Cevicherias, tourists, backpackers, and an organized cultural scene with tourists companies and many more. The city has a Moorish bearing with overhanging balconies, sharp multicoloured buildings, Catholic churches, cobbled streets intermingling with developed high rise residential buildings and complexes. Being a coastal city( pacific ocean) is always covered with clouds and sea mist.  Sea mist is predominantly produced due to breezes off the Humboldt currents running alongside the coast, casting a frequent spray of mist, like a fine spray of water coming on. A new experience!

Lima scenes

The people were extremely fashion conscious, women showcasing explicit fashions, beauty and massage parlours, nail bars and cosmetic surgery adverts everywhere. Peru's most popular cuisine consists of a fish preparation named Ceviche(I had not tasted it before), cured fish in Lemon juice and salt served with other items like soups, boiled sweet potatoes, and Yucca! The restaurants serving Ceviche are called Cevicheria! In the morning, after the hearty breakfast, we explored the town centre, especially the coastal embankment consisting of shops of numerous fashion brands, eateries, plush cafes and bars, to name a few. Woollen products made of Alpaca wool were statement pieces. Our lunch included mouthwatering Guacamole filled tacos, and ceviche of course, which we enjoyed to our delights, in a restaurant called Sofa Place. 

As usual, I have included a picture of my travel journal here. 

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