Argentina or Brazil: Which Side of Iguazu Falls is the Best to Visit?

Blog number 29. 16.04.2021 nguptatravelscrapbook.blogspot.com

Argentina or Brazil: Which side of Iguazu Falls is the best to visit?

Latins are tenderly enthusiastic. In Brazil, they throw flowers at you. In Argentina, they throw themselves at you! Marlene Dietrich 

Christ The Redeemer

Helicopter shot of Iguazu Falls, A World Heritage site, In English meaning Great Waters.

Argentina and Brazil are two beautiful and inspirational South American countries full of unique, historical and world-famous monuments; our one journey did not appear enough to visit all the known places there. In December 2007, we travelled on an escorted tour, classified as two cities excursion, between Buenos Aires and Rio De Janeiro, organised by Voyages Jules Verne. The Argentinian highlights included spending time in Buenos Aires, the capital city and its famous neighbourhoods, including La Boca, the home of its football God, Diego Maradona, Eva Peron's Cemetery, exposure to renowned Ranch culture, and the world-famous Iguazu Falls. 

In Rio De Janeiro, Brazil's capital city, our trip focused on continuing with Iguazu Falls, gape at  Christ The Redeemer, views from the famous Sugar Loaf mountain and absorbing the famous beach culture at Copacabana and Ipanema beaches. During this trip, one extraordinary and unexpected experience was to join in the  New Year's Eve celebrations on Copacabana beach, amongst approx. Two million people.

Panoramic views of the Falls from Brazilian Side 

While in Argentina:

Buenos Aires (meaning Good Air) is a vibrant metropolis amid a natural European feel, art Nouveau architecture, wide multi-laned boulevards, mismatched cobblestone streets wandered by exact fashion-conscious spirits. Virtually, the city has grown, becoming the most populated metropolis, and maybe now nicknamed as the Bad Airs! The town had extreme congestion with nearly 35,000 vehicles on the streets, with no attempt to clear the pollution. But here comes nature to its respite when frequent rains and vital sea air clears the pollution for a bit of while but often.

Jacaranda in full bloom on the famous 29th Ave, in Buenos Aires

Late December was the summer peak in South America, the weather hot, humid and sultry, us carrying water bottles and protecting ourselves with shades, umbrellas and hats all the time. As we were in the region near Xmas, the streets, restaurants, and hotels alike had Xmas essence all along. Still, Buenos Aires was one of the most expensive cities that we had visited in recent times. I wonder why it was expensive as compared to the neighbouring state of Brazil? Was it maintaining its old snobbishness of being the Paris of South America with the highest number of expensive, branded outlets, expensive cars, restaurants and many antique stores on the high streets? We visited a few of these antique stores as our hotel was in a fashionable district of Buenos Aires; all hotels included in our tour price with preselected hotels, knowingly, would have gone for a cheaper selection of hotels. But we did enjoy our stays while it lasted. 

At Alvear Hotel, Buenos Aires.

The pulsating capital comprises several different quarters, including highly fashionable and wealthy sects of Retiro, Recoleta and Barrio Norte. Recoleta has a world-famous cemetery, haunting, though! I Wondered why the cemetery got famous. Tourist busloads were bringing visitors to this cemetery who were walking thru the length and breadth of the place. I didn't have any such interest apart from visiting the resting site of iconic Argentinian legend Eva Peron, a national star and idol, pronounced further by Madonna's eternal song, "Don't Cry For Me Argentina". https://youtu.be/KD_1Z8iUDho

On the other hand, La Boca's hamlet, with its brightly coloured facades featured in every travel magazine advertising Argentinian holiday, matched our taste and style during holidays, the ultimate destination for every tourist and visitor. La Boca: Buenos Aires at its best and worst, bright, vibrant, and alive, often portrayed as the symbol of Buenos Aires! Every street here was a paradise for art lovers, with graffiti and wall paintings and murals mostly in yellows and blues, the colour of the Argentinian Flag and its famous Football team. La Boca, a humble, working-class migrant neighbourhood (from Italy and Spain), landed here and started working in the Argentinian beef packaging industry and shipping. Today, the area thrives with young and olds hanging around playing football on the pavements, dancing to Tango's beats, buskers, loud music blaring from loudspeakers, and simultaneously, a good number of thieves and pickpockets mingling in the crowds. Crime watchers are equally active in this area, and we were warned too!

The famous Football stadium and around in La Boca

Late Diego Maradona, Football superstar, the national hero, was born in Buenos Aires and was brought up in stifling poverty while learning to kick a football on these streets. Here are Maradona's most aggressive, passionate, and patriotic supporters persisting beyond his death in 2020. Football is the unmatched patriotic obsession here. 

Crazy La Boca, Buenos Aires

Maradona first emerged as famously playing for Boca Juniors in La Bombonera stadium in this district.

 Maradona eventually led Argentina to two world cup victories in 1978 and 1986 and an Olympic victory in 2008. La Boca is the only place on this planet where Coca-Cola has replaced its iconic red and white logo with white and blue. How awe-inspiring it was to see the two national colours on every wall, posters, street signs, and even the furniture in restaurants painted in garish yellows and blues. Simultaneously paying tributes to the country's most famous citizen and depicting solidarity with the national soccer team. 

Without the streets nor dusks of Buenos Aires, a tango cannot be written." - Jorge Luis Borges.

For tourists visiting Argentina, going to a tango show is an essential part of their journey. Tango's origins, lying in the African-Latino groups who were first transported over as slaves and the wave of immigrants in the 19th century, Tango is a unique mishmash of passion, sentimentality and melancholy. The Spanish and Italian melodies jumbled with African drum beats and became an integral part of a tango orchestra. Today a revolving Tango assisted with its music has become the most sophisticated, trendy, and elegant dance to participate in any dance contest. I found that Buenos Aires was full of adverts and brochures, showcasing all about Tango from lessons and dancing on the streets to underground milongas and glitzy shows with three-course meals included as fine wining ( Malbec wines from famous Mendoza district) and dining. At one of these shows, our own experience was a heartening steeped in Tango folklore appeal, and that too without dancing!

Street scenes, Buenos Aires

Due to its European heritage, Buenos Aires has a solid cafe culture with numerous cafes spilling all over, the notable and most famous cafe house being Cafe Tortoni since 1858. After a short wait, we finally were seated for our morning dose of coffee but with a jaded service, which we didn't mind at all. After all, we were on holidays, with no rush and no targets to meet.

A day at Estancia, on the outskirts of Buenos Aires

Last but not least, we indulged in some serious feasting and savoured the alternatives to beef dishes, but the steak was the order of the day, coming from Argentina's huge cattle ranches, which are a tourist attraction. 

Iguazu Falls or Cataratas del Iguazú or Cataratas do Iguaçu or Iguassu Falls

Iguazu Falls are shared by Argentina and Brazil, divided by the mighty Iguazu River, an iconic sight in a substantial subtropical forest; its roar and the spray can be heard and seen from skies and from grounds far away. While Iguazu is not the largest waterfall globally, it is unquestionably the most impressive. When I visited much famous Victoria Falls nearly eight years later in 2015, I couldn't stop matching Victoria falls with Iguazu Falls. Both the falls differ in their perceptions, surroundings, and backdrops. Iguazu Falls comprise approximately 275 individual cascades spread out around a 1.7mile long, U-shaped cliff formation that cuts through the Iguazu River. Iguazu Falls are the most powerful waterfall system, nearly three times as wide as Niagara Falls and even more far-reaching than Victoria Falls. It's the shape of the Falls that makes them so marvellous, allowing visitors to witness the falls thundering all around them, greeting visitors in a dream-like sequence. Butterflies, parrots, macaws, toucans, and many more flutter, displaying their vibrant colours of spots and curves in the surrounding brightly and heavy orchids laden rainforests. Brilliant rainbows hang out ghosts like across the falls and often. The most arresting sight at Iguazu, the Devil's Throat waterfall, a part of the overall falls, is a thunderous swirl in which 64,000 cubic feet of water per second spills over a horseshoe-shaped cliff into an infinite depth.

Local map of the falls area.

With the opportunity of visiting Iguazu from two countries, people often ask the question, "but which side is better?"

Fortunately, having seen the Falls from both sides, I settled that each side was better than the other but had different outlooks. Honestly, I could not choose as to which side was better. Seeing the falls from both sides created 3 D images in my memory canvass. I liked the Argentinian side for its accessible, well-demarcated, and planned walking trails. One gets an authentic experience of rainforest walks while waiting to reach the Devils throat Viewpoint. The Brazilian side gives you a panoramic view of the falls; the Argentinian side gets you up close and personal with the falls themselves.

The Argentinian Side

With about three-quarters of the falls located on the Argentinian side, this side offers a larger area to explore than its Brazilian counterpart. A train takes you to a one-kilometre walkway over the River Iguazu, where you can peer right over the edge of the waterfall, especially the Devils Throat, looking at the river flowing 80 metres below. I estimated that we walked around 5 or 6 miles on the paths (no FitBit then) and walkways to see all the main waterfalls. One of the highlights of our day was a powerboat ride at the bottom-end of these falls.

  Reaching the Argentinian side of the falls.

The Brazilian Side

The Brazilian side of Iguazu offers the more impressive panoramic vistas of the falls of the two sides, with grand views towards Argentina. Visiting the Brazilian side allows you to put the natural wonder's grandness into perception and appreciate its scale from more distance. Having viewed the falls from both sides and taking a motorboat ride, we then took a helicopter ride on the Brazilian side for a bird's eye view of the same. Amazing it was! I was timid and scared to watch the falls sitting next to the helicopter pilot, but a good tip was to view the spectacle through the camera!

Brazilian Rainforest surroundings 

Reaching Rio De Janeiro

Brazil is the largest country in South America. Its wilds are endlessly enormous, from the snaking Amazon River and dense forests to the thundering Iguazu Falls. Its dunes are soft and broad; its wetlands teem with jaguars. Its cobbled towns gleam with gilded Rococo churches, glass towers and modernist museums. Rio De Janeiro, the capital, has a symbol of Christianity, Christ The Redeemer. The statue has become an icon of Rio and Brazil. After Iguazu Falls, we flew to Rio De Janeiro to take a short flight and stayed in a Copacabana beach hotel. Rio looked like a beach party town; the city thrums with samba, riotous carnivals consuming tropical food and drinks.

Copacabana Beach, getting ready for New Yr Eve, the photo was taken from our hotel.

Squeezed between forest-swathed mountains and the emerald Atlantic Ocean, the names of Rio's finest beach neighbourhoods are already familiar: casual-but-cool Copacabana and hip and well-heeled Ipanema. We spent three days in Rio, most of the time hanging on the beaches and eating street food, so widely available. Most of the Cariocas stay permanently out in the sun, consuming chilled bears, and the national drink named Caipirinha, never leaving their beach chairs! I wondered when did they go to work?

Copacabana beach

What can you say about Rio that hasn't been saying before? The sun shines, and people dance everywhere. Copacabana and Ipanema's beaches were full of people from all over the world, and it seemed like they were there from morning till night. I have never seen so many people walk off the beach with hardly any clothes on! Flip flops were the footwear, and beachwear and the sun-shades was the fashion. Lean, heavily tanned, and bronzed bodies decorated with beautiful, flowery havaianas were a familiar scene. We loved the relaxed, sunny ambience; yes, there is crime and poverty rubbing shoulders with immense wealth. Alfresco dining culture matching up to the inequality between the haves and have nots!

Rio Street scenes

Overall, it was a fascinating and exciting place and somewhere I would not hesitate to return to. According to the locals called  Cariocas, "after creating the world, God rested on Copacabana Beach, walked in Tijuca's toucan-filled forests and danced all night in the samba clubs, Lapa. Then he left his son to watch over the city, arms outstretched, welcoming you to this unique mix of wilderness and urbanite. How true indeed!

Christ the Redeemer (Portuguese: O Cristo Redentor) is a statue of Jesus Christ in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil. The statue stands 38 metres (120 ft) tall and is located at the Corcovado Mountain peak in the Tijuca Forest National Park overlooking the city.

View from Sugarloaf and Corcovado Mountains

The idea for erecting a giant statue atop Corcovado was first suggested in the mid-1850s when Catholic priests requested finances to build a large religious monument and collect donations to support the construction. The statue of Christ the Redeemer with open arms was chosen. A local engineer designed the statue; it was sculpted by Paul Landowski, a French monument sculptor. Landowski's submissions and the decision to build the structure out of reinforced concrete instead of steel were more suitable for the cross-shaped statue. The outer layers are soapstone, chosen for its enduring qualities and ease of use. Construction took nine years (1922-31), with the masterpiece opened to the public in October 1931. We took a ride on the charming old cog-railway with its crimson-coloured carriages. The train trundled gently up the steep slope, with plenty of time to take in the surroundings, including rainforested Tijuca National Park to reach the top of Corcovado Mountain for Christ The Redeemer.

Further views of Rio

But statue can be seen from almost anywhere in Rio; it towers over the city, it has been named one of the Seven Wonders of the World situated in the second largest city of Brazil looking over 6.3 million people and is a World Heritage Site - its nickname is the 'Marvellous City'. The top was shiny, bright with intense sun and yet misty due to surrounding rain forests, but it was terrific too. The mist did clear to see the city's sights below us and views across the bay to Sugar Loaf Mountain, which was our next stop. A 10-minute metro ride brings you to Sugarloaf, Rio's unmissable mountain-with-a-view. 

A new statue of Christ the Protector is being built in Encantado, south of Rio will be taller than the famous Redeemer statue in Rio de Janeiro, making it the world's third tallest Jesus statue.

Caipirinha is Brazil’s national cocktail. Cachaça, hard liquor distilled from sugarcane, is mixed with sugar and lime juice to create the authoritative and delicious Caipirinha. Research suggested that the drink was first created to combat the Spanish flu. 

Rio is home to various colourful and distinct neighbourhoods. It's nearly impossible to explore them all. Take a few days to check out funky, picturesque Lapa, the bohemian Santa Teresa, music– and movie-laden Botafogo, or the trendy Leblon. The Lapa region's narrow streets are lined with caipirinha bars and samba clubs all the way through! Always end the day in the Zona Sul, home to many of Rio's upscale neighbourhoods and the bulk of its famous beaches, including Copacabana, Ipanema, and Leblon. Girl from Ipanema, Famous song by Frank Sinatra F Well, I did walk on the beach in Ipanema, that is the only similarity! But I did walk on that very same beach that inspired the song, a wonderful experience.https://youtu.be/mD6pbCSeWLs

New year eve grand celebrations in Rio De Janeiro

To visit Rio de Janeiro any time of the year is great, but there are a few special times during the year for which the locals (Cariocas) really let their hair down and party.   One of these events is New Year’s Eve, where Rio and Copacabana Beach are famous for the amazing celebration and fireworks display (The other is surely the Brazilian Carnival). It is the time to put the past behind and look forward to the future and the new year. In Brazil, many people do this symbolically by wearing all white.

New year eve celebrations at Copacabana beach

 Easy for me, white being my favourite anyway! Other local traditions include cleansing oneself in the ocean waters and throwing white flowers and small mementoes into the surf with the belief that if they do not come back, your wish or prayer will be granted. In Rio, the primary and the big event is celebrated on Copacabana beach,h which is a massive fireworks display at midnight. The event was just like a huge outdoor music festival where approx. Two million people congregated on a two-mile-long Copacabana beach, with families travelling over from adjoining countries, including Venezuela, Argentina, Uruguay, Colombia, Bolivia, and Peru. Many families had travelled in their vehicles all the way along with their children, who had school holidays at that time.

Havaianas selling on the beach

All were there on the beach with their vehicles, full of food and drinks, parked on the beach alongside.  What a party mood, bodies swinging on the tunes of blaring samba, played on frequently posted music stations along the whole length of the beach by the event organisers. An equal number of police present to safeguard the public!  The local people shared their food and drinks with us with great enthusiasm and excitement, so much so that we were truly overwhelmed by their kind-heartedness and generous spirits. One of the best new year party we reckoned to ourselves!

My fellow blog readers: Please feel free to add your experiences and comments in my blog's comment section. I have included a picture of my handwritten travel journal assimilated during this amazing trip back in 2007-08.