Venturing Off The Beaten Path to Discover the Moorish History in South Spain and a Glimpse of the Famous European Rock Named Gibraltar. nguptatravelscrapbook.blogspot.com

 BLOG NUMBER 31 02/05/2021 nguptatravelscrapbook.blogspot.com     02/06/2021 

Venturing off the beaten path to discover the Moorish History in South Spain and a glimpse of the famous European rock Named Gibraltar

In the UK, 75% of the adult population has received the first dose of Covid Vaccination, and nearly 40% receiving both doses.  The UK is scheduled to reopen completely on 21st June 2021, having been in the third and longest lockdown since January 2021.

Famous Alhambra Palace ( picture obtained from Google) in Southern Spain

I visited Andalusia for the first time around 21 years ago; we loved it instantly. Since then, I have returned to the same region twice more, each time appreciating it further than the visit before. The sharp scent of orange blossom, the swish of a flamenco dress, the glimpse of a white village perched atop a hill: recollections of Andalusia remain on. Let me share the best attributes about Andalusia in the south of Spain and admit about my most favourite places here. 

Whitewashed Village dwellings 

Andalusia sweeps across the south of Spain, flanking the Atlantic Ocean to the west and the Mediterranean to the east. It was here that the Moors remained longest and left their most substantial monuments in the cities of Granada, Cordoba, Malaga, and Seville, spanning a wide range of backdrops, varying from beaches to sandy outlooks to mountains. From flamingos and wine-producing vineyards to flamenco, the unique Andalusian dance art form. The inventory keeps visitors flocking to this region again and again. Glorious summers with blue skies, tasty and cheap food options, the diversity of panoramas, friendly laidback people and some of the unique cultural charms make Andalusia a well-rounded destination.

Moorish Spain

Moorish Spain

In the 8th century, the Iberian Peninsula came almost entirely under Moorish rule. The Muslim settlers called Spain Al Andalus. Under the Caliphates' leadership, the Moors constructed castles and palaces enfolded by patios, pools, and gardens while utilising extravagant arches, stucco work, glazed wall tiles, and ornamental calligraphy. They introduced new crops to Spain, including oranges, rice and nuts like pistachios, almonds and walnuts. But by the end of the 11th century, the caliphates were losing their empire to the advancing northern Christian kingdoms, with the biggest recapture of Granada in 1492. The Andalusia region of Spain unveils some of the best and most beautiful architecture of The Caliphate's realm, including the famous Alhambra Palace. You'll find traces of Moorish legacy across Spain's largest region, from the haunting arches of the Mezquita in Cordoba to the latticework in the central meeting point in Seville: La Giralda. It is indeed a genuinely diverse and picturesque destination with lots of selections for travellers.

WHEN THE WORLD STOPPED.

After more than a year of the Covid 19 pandemic, when we can scarcely leave our houses, the travel memories bring me joy but also a weight that could, on some days, break my heart. Did it use to be so easy to walk between the orange trees, to the clatter of hooves and the salty tang of Tapas and fine wines? Was a new adventure only ever a short walk away? It doesn't appear to be so! Well, not at least for the time being! As we try not to stare at the same four walls, drive each other mad and instead of baking soda bread and catching up with a new series of fictions on Netflix or Prime Video, I decided to write the travel blog on Andalusia. The reminiscences of Andalusian region travel came alive to me as I read that Gibraltar was on the UK's green list to travel in mid-May 2021! It is a long but fantastic road journey from Marbella to Gibraltar that we undertook during one visit. Andalusia is divided into eight provinces, Seville, Malaga, Cadiz, Granada, Cordoba, Almeria, Jaen, and Huelva (from the most populated to the least). Each one of them has very distinct features and traditions. After unique scenic experiences on most visits, we have loved active ecotourism while visiting many natural sites like caves, mines, and low-set mountains.

Most of the population of Andalusia is centred around the cities of Seville, Malaga, Cadiz, and along the Costa del Sol, the oldest tourist destination, along the coastline of Spain. Costa del Sol includes towns like Malaga, Torremolinos, Fuengirola, Marbella, Nerja, Frigiliana and Torrox. Developed since the 1960s, Costa del Sol has some attractive mass tourism pockets and some notable highlights. Towards the eastern part of the Costa del Sol from Malaga to the Province of Granada, one can still find some very quiet and enchanting tourist centres such as Nerja and Torrox. 

The western part of the Costa del Sol has seen more development over the years leading up to my favourite resort of the Jet-set town of Marbella with its opulent marina and quaint old town, and rich Puerto Banus. Both so evergreen and so fashionable and chic! Home to the rich and famous, who descend on Marbella and Puerto Banus to enjoy the glitzy parties and spend their days on the fancy yachts. The Old Town of Marbella, also known as Casco Antiguo, is impressive and so astonishingly well preserved. It's a maze of small laneways and descending bougainvillaea with faded old townhouses and villas. Many buildings are of the Moorish style, and much of the liveliness is gathered around the Plaza de Los Naranjos, a fifteenth-century Castilian square. 

Pictures of Marbella and Puerto Banus Marina

It was simply delightful to spend a few of our afternoons and evenings in one of the square's charming cafes, shaded by fragrant orange trees, while analysing the fashionable boutiques. Attention-grabbing were the shows of local magicians and musicians in the street managing their lean source of income! Marbella has a thriving arts and culture scene too. The town hosts its Art and Film festivals, as well as being home to numerous fashion galleries. A labyrinth of narrow historical streets leads past branded shops, ice cream parlours, restaurants, and tapas bars, some more hidden than others. The nearby port town of Puerto Banus is Marbella's even glitzier neighbour. Time in this town gives you a glimpse of the playground of the ultra-rich and famous. The super fashionable marina is all about being seen.

More pictures of the famous marina

Marbella

Everything is high end – from the shopping, the restaurants, and the exclusive nightlife to the million-pound yachts moored up and the supercars lining the port. It's certainly a unique destination, drawing the world's ultra-rich and a true enclave of ultimate luxury. Marbella has some excellent restaurants. From quaint, traditional restaurants tucked away in the Old Town to fine dining by the waterfront; certainly spoilt for choice here. Sitting by the harbour is ideal for 'people watch' or 'celebrity watch' as Puerto Banus is the more exclusive area outside Marbella with the beautiful yachts and large boats displayed in the harbour. Viva Espana and Agadoo songs may still be heard in some bars or clubs in the area, and memories will come flooding back.

Nerja: The former fishing village of Nerja is one of those places along the Costa del Sol which have managed to retain a lot of flair and character.

 In the centre of town is the Balcony of Europa, a cliff lookout with some dramatic views of the coast and the local beaches. Partying on this balcony, we took part in new year celebrations back in the year 2000 and the family, when it was a tradition to eat grapes as the clock struck the onset of the new year! A famous Italian restaurant named Pavarotti in the town served as many as you like pasta dishes but one at a time. My son Akash opted for this selection, having to stop just after two pasta dishes ordered! Nearby, the Caves of Nerja are a popular tourist attraction for Andalusia holidays and are considered one of the best cave systems in Spain.

Ronda:

The city of Ronda is located on a high plateau overlooking the beautiful rural landscape of inner Andalusia. Its two old parts are connected by a dramatic 140 metres tall arched stone bridge, the Puente Nuevo. Most people will want to visit Ronda to enjoy the views from the cliff-side parks and the views of the bridge from the bottom of the Tajo Gorge. But Ronda has more to offer. Many relics of the Moorish influenced past, such as the Arab Baths, fascinating palaces such as La Casa del Rey Moro, various churches, a bullfighting museum, and lots more.

Frigiliana:

Just outside of Nerja, Frigiliana must be one of the most beautiful white villages along the eastern Costa del Sol. We climbed to many steps to see the complete offering of the village with rewards of fantastic views of the lush green valleys to the Mediterranean Sea. The roads are so steep and narrow that no car will ever disturb the silence. Just lose yourself on your Andalusia holiday in the charming atmosphere of this village with its potted geraniums and hand-painted wall tiles.

Malaga:

The capital of the region, Malaga, is a real surprise. It may be a busy port town, but the local government has put a lot of effort into beautifying and improving its infrastructure. Today, the pedestrianised roads of the city centre are worth a stroll while coming across a lovely cathedral with its missing bell tower and the ruins of the Roman theatre. Pablo Picasso was born in Malaga, with a museum attributed to his name in Malaga.

Granada:

Alhambra Palace and its interiors

The city of Granada is home to probably the best-known attraction of Andalusia, the Alhambra Palace, a UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Perched high on the deep green mountains of the snow-capped Sierra Nevada, the burned red stone of the Alhambra Complex is a sight to behold. It is a significant highpoint on any European itinerary. In my opinion, the Alhambra Palace built around the same time ( 12th Century) is in no competition with traditional English Castles ( visited many in the UK). It is hard to imagine that this palace of delicate mosaics, perfectly proportioned fountains and fragrant rose gardens, cypress trees and whitewashed towns came to life at around the time when stone castles popped up in wet and windy climates in Europe. The name comes from the Arabic "al Hamra," the red one, with an astonishing sight of mystique at sunset, when they radiate a soft copper-red hue against the lilac night sky. When the Moors lost this paradise to the reconquest of the Catholic Monarchs, the last sultan of the Alhambra sobbed as he watched them arrive. In an era devoid of political correctness, his mother turned to him and uttered the phrase that became immortal: "Do not weep like a woman for what you could not defend as a man."

American author Washington Irving lived in the Alhambra while he wrote his book The Tales of the Alhambra in 1828.

WHAT TO EAT IN SOUTHERN SPAIN

Tapas servings

Tapas is a stereotype in southern Spain; it's a way of life. Even the most desolate service station at the edge of the road serves up fresh, homemade Tapas, and it's entirely gratifying. The light snacks, known as Tapas and sometimes Pinches, originated in Andalusia in the 19th century as an accompaniment to sherry. The name derives from a bartender's covering glass with a saucer named Tapa to keep out flies.

The custom progressed to chunks of cheese or a few olives, placed on Tapa, to serve with drinks. Today Tapas range from cold snacks to elaborately prepared hot dishes, generally eaten standing at the bar rather than sitting at a table. Almost every village in Spain has a tapas bar. In the most significant towns, it is customary to move from bar to bar, sampling the specialities of each place.

Flamenco dance

More than a dance, flamenco is an artistic expression of the joys and sorrows of life. A uniquely Andalusian art, its origins are hard to trace. Gipsies may have been the leading creators of this art, mixing their own culture with existing Moorish and Andalusian folklore incorporating Jewish and Christian music. By the 18th century, flamenco began to develop into its present form. Many Cante (song) styles from different Andalusia, but no strict choreography improvises from basic movements following the guitar's rhythm and feel. Flamenco has become popular all over the world, especially in the United States and Japan. A few hypotheses relate to the origin of the name of the flamenco genus dance with the bird of the same name in parallel with the flamingo birds. Some say that flamenco receives that name because its interpreters' appearance and body language remind them of flamingos.

Gibraltar

The famous Rock with its famous resident

Today, Gibraltar, the most accessible travel option on the green list from the UK, marks the onset of the restart of foreign travel options as we hopefully reach towards the possible regression of the Covid pandemic. Gibraltar is a petite overseas British territory located on the southernmost tip of the Iberian peninsula, right next to Spain. With a slim population of just 34,000 and the reduced space of 3 square miles, people live in high rise accommodation, reminding me of Hong Kong’s residential developments.

Sky train lifting to the top of the Rock

Gibraltar's name comes from the Arab general who named it after himself – Gibel Tariq, meaning 'Tariq's mountain' who led the Islamic conquest of Southern Spain and Gibraltar in 711 CE. Gibraltar endured under Moorish rule for nearly 800 years when Spain reconquered Gibraltar in 1462 CE, but in 1704, it came under foreign power once the British captured the Rock. Spain has continued to contest Britain's 300-year rule of Gibraltar and is still frequently at odds over the waters around Gibraltar and the airport. Today "Gib", as the locals call it, is one of 14 British overseas territories. It has its parliament and is self-governing, except for defence and foreign policy governed by the Westminster in London. Gibraltar has a compact military history with plenty of army souvenirs and ruins to see added, by its well-known tax-free shopping, which many tourists throng here for. Gibs are British citizens displaying their passion for Britishness in the form of red letterboxes, pubs, and fish and chip stalls everywhere.

Top of The Rock

Gibraltar Marina

Standing 426 metres tall and overshadowing Gib's skyline is the landmark, 'The Rock' – one colossal piece of limestone! The short cable car ride to the Top Station has epic views and is the highest summit with vistas all the way around. To the South are tankers in the Strait of Gibraltar – one of the busiest shipping lanes in the Mediterranean, with the neighbouring continent of Africa in the distance. To the East is Spanish Marbella on Costa del Sol; whilst looking North, you can see Southern Spain and the immediate neighbouring Spanish town of La Linea, where we parked our car and walked over to the Rock, taking 15 minutes across the airport runway, which is very strange! The Gibraltar Rock has hidden depths. The 34-mile extended network of tunnels built in the limestone includes lesser built alcoves which were the intended bases for the second world war's Operation Tracer.   

Funny story about the resident apes on Gibraltar!

The Gibraltarians consist of a mix of British, Spanish, Italian, Maltese, and Portuguese, along with Indians and Moroccans running various restaurants. Apart from the human residents, a couple of hundred Barbary Macaques are the only wild monkeys found on the European continent. Legend has it that if the apes disappear, so will the British. Naturally, the apes are therefore well protected. They do look adorable but don't let their sweet faces deceive you, snatching everything off your hands. The Rock is one big playground for the apes; we found it fascinating watching them groom each other and stalk tourists who they think may be carrying food in their bags! They're intelligent and mischievous. We experienced lengthy delays driving back to Spain. The Spanish customs queue can be very long and must be a constant source of frustration for Spaniards who work in Gib who has to do this daily.

Gibraltar's Airplane Crossing

Rock with the airport strip

When you first arrive in Gibraltar, you can't help notice the main road into the city as it crosses the airport's runway! Just like a railway crossing, the road frequently closes for planes to take off or land. When the barriers are up, you have to drive or walk across the road quickly! However, if you get stuck at the crossing lights, it's cool to watch the planes take off as you're so close.

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